Tuesday, October 25, 2016

Fragrance confidential: YeYe Parfums

After every Esxence or Pitti Fragranze which I could not admit, I search through new perfumeries to check if any laudable house has entered the industry. There are so many listed in news column of perfume databases and it gives me a chance to evaluate their portfolio one by one. Many of them are not what we're exactly looking for, some begin very strong but on same vein of mainstream fashion of so-called niches which present over 10 irrelevant-to-each-other fragrances at once and no progress aftermath. Just few of them remain in my bucket to evaluate and YeYe is one of them that deserves a rapt attention.

Friday, October 21, 2016

Spring with autumnal gloom: Bas de Soie by Serge Lutens

Photo by Guy Bourdin

This last days I re-racked a pile of homeless samples and gave them a new shelf and order. Meanwhile I came across some undiscovered fragrances, one of which is Bas de Soie by Serge Lutens. I usually put few reviews between two reviews from one house unless a new release come at my door or an intriguing case tickle me to speak about, though briefly.

Thursday, October 20, 2016

Mystery and gingerbread: Baptême du Feu by Serge Lutens

I'm here with my belated review on Christopher Sheldrake's latest creation in mainstream works of Serge Lutens which I've been testing whole summer but couldn't attend to jot down a few words. A good excuse for this long delay apart from health recovery, is once again Lutens invites me in a maze he created to play me like knight plays on chestboard but eventually he hints me to the fact that the new release is part of a new stream...

When I first tried L'Orpheline and La Religieuse I was surprised not only by their whispering projection but by their remoteness from famous Lutensian orientalism, which later I encountered the same irrelativity in Bas de Soie (still relative to earlier works with giant projection) and De Profundis which both are totally irrelevant to what Serge Noir, Ambre Sultan and Chergui are. Seems the mystical director has altered path from Moorish to European context and Baptême du Feu approves this claim.

Tuesday, October 18, 2016

Animal-human: Peau de Bête by Les Liquides Imaginaires

While first half of 20th century was heyday of aldehydes, blackness and darkness allegedly is signature of the generation of Instagram and selfie. About seven years ago, Alessandro Gualtieri introduced his revolutionary manifest with man-made oud and something he called hashish in Black Afgano. A perfume that changed the destination of so-called niche class just the way YSL had done with M7 in 2002.

Have a glance once again to sum up, I have never had enthusiasm for Les Liquides Imaginaires perfumes but this time the house released a fragrance in 2016 which I can't simply skip over it without a review, not because it's a premium or unique fragrance, but simply because it's a perfume we have to discuss about.

Monday, October 17, 2016

Grease-smeared leather: Cuir Andalou by Rania J.

Although leather fragrances are the most challenging ones for majority of non-perfume addict audience, the last years we're witnessing more and more eyes turning toward leathery compositions so this family of perfumes became one of the most popular trends - specially leather and suede with oriental accent. Rania Jouaneh who formerly has entirely occupied me with her nature-loyal, oriental and premium fragrances, has now launched a new fragrance around leather named after the city of Andalusia where historically was a center of tanning and leather craftsmanship.

Thursday, October 13, 2016

Dance like no one is watching: Bal d'Afrique by Byredo

Exciting, active, happy and childish, was and still is my first impression on Bal d'Afrique a year ago when I got this perfume. It was spring and the smell fit hundred percent the springy weather with rains and sun and rainbows. It still perks me up with the same overly exciting mood I have in a sunny spring afternoon.

Tuesday, October 11, 2016

Cult lavender: Bucoliques de Provence by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Me and all see that prestigious house of L'Artisan Parfumeur is about to moult a new skin and began a silence reborn in which first the labels and color of bottles changed and then new olfactory style takes us to a convey into renewed world of L'Artisan. While nowadays any change in label or flacon became synonym of dilution I try to not be skeptical to this contemporary fashion, but this is what reveals in time with settled and current quality of older releases. However, the house has put many of older creations into hall of memory list and ended their production.

Peculiar marine floral: Villa Lympia by Oriza L. Legrand

The Boardwalk on the Beach at Trouville, Claude Monet, 1870

In extension to my previous post which was about a heritage house of perfumery engaged in a modern release, I follow the trend with Villa Lympia from the Oriza L. Legrand which itself is a resurrected 19th century house of perfumes who introduced a new formula related to mid-20th century's vintage with modern aspects.

Comfortist lemon: Altruist by J.F. Schwarzlose

J.F. Schwarzlose Berlin which is a heritage house of perfumery based in Berlin, came up with a modern citrus-optimizing creation in March 2016 which is a collaboration with Véronique Nyberg: the nose behind JFS perfumes.

Monday, October 10, 2016

Ancient and tranquil: Macaque by Zoologist

Photo by Jasper Doest, Natural History Museum

In the previous post I initiated with a short statement about pathetic scenario of today's fragrance business and anonymous brands who run a sizable part of this business with no certain ideology nor a defensible quality, in contrary, artistic pioneers in minority who put their best effort to deliver a soul into olfactory medium. Another examples is Zoologist. A Canadian-based house of perfume that achieved great applause and awards in short time. Victor Wong's zoo this time comes up with two new fragrances in 2016: Nightingale and Macaque.