Friday, April 28, 2017

Swiss knife iris: Iris de Nuit by James Heeley

Ogata Kōrin, Irises at Yatsuhashi, 1709
Spring has already scattered her curtain of silk all over trees of northern hemisphere and you feel it wholly with blossoms and fresh smells in air. What can cheer up a springy day like a decent seamless iris fragrance with powdery and earthy dimensions?!

Friday, April 21, 2017

Vice Versa: Néroli d'Ispahan by Boucheron

Some members of La Collection by Boucheron

Desert of Switzerland, tropical fruits of Siberia, seasides of Mongolia... you feel confused!? Stay with this post...

The fragrance industry is getting seriously spoiled, not only by ephemeral so-called artistic indies, but also by the elders of this trade. I'm not condemning Boucheron only. This post is a bullet targeting many others.

Monday, April 17, 2017

Scent of tobacco, sense of trust: Close Up by Olfactive Studio

Left: close up shut of eye from "Your Beautiful Eyes" series by Suren Manvelyan, left: new bottle of Olfactive Studio

Smell of tobacco and coffee instantly give me sense of trust and friendship. The source of this emotional impression partially comes from the art society I was a member in. Every Tuesday we used gather in our local few blocks down the Armenian district in Tehran in an amber-lighted cafe away from cars and horns, where tobacco boxes, coffee, and handmade pipes are exhibited on shelves to ceiling. Cozy place, friendly environment and good friends... and of course smell of tobacco and coffee.

Friday, April 14, 2017

Where to settle my throne: an overview on Sultan Pasha attars; part I

Photo provided by Sultan Pasha

The policy of seeding market with fragrant luxury tagged with astrological prices with excuse of artistic ideas and high-end exclusives that gives you chance to smell entirely unique stuff, is a new fever of this last years. And ironically, instead of few, most of new-brand houses in this grand bazaar do not survive enough to impress a customer for next purchase of a certain perfume. In such crowded market which looks like an underground performance hall with low ceiling, loud noises and bothersome lights somebody's dancing waltz like nobody is there. He's Sultan Pasha who have introduced his house of attar oils in 2012 and immediately got many positive feedback from perfumistas and renown bloggers.

Sunday, April 9, 2017

Niche is not dead, yet: Geste by Humiecki & Graef

Ad picture of Geste by the house of H&G

"Niche is dead". This is what you hear frequently usually from renown niche perfume producers agitated by the mess and mass in uncontrolled growth of so-called exclusive perfume industry hit the markets this last years. Niche might be dead, but not as long as Humiecki & Graef is there. From many angles this house fits definition of niche perfumery with outrageous ideas tied to human emotions, intriguing smells composed of irrelevant sources, and superior quality...

Friday, April 7, 2017

Standout iris: an overview on some of the greatest irises I met in 2016

To talk about iris (or orris) is to talk about a material that deserves carrying a coat of arms itself, not only for being such precious in monetary definitions, but also for its celestial earthy render. Iris is the most artistic part of perfume world, an absolute melancholy, prominent in identity and at the same time fragile, compared to other ingredients.

Sunday, April 2, 2017

Wild at heart: Purple Heart v.5 by Map of the Heart

Appeared in 2014 on perfume databases, Australian perfume house of Map of the Heart, it immediately caught public interest not only by interesting list of ingredients but also, and even more than every other aspect, by their unusual and quaint heart-shaped bottles. But policy of rarity and few stockists (they are actually numerous, specially in Italy, but restricted to Europe and few other regions) keep them rather unveiled.
Influenced by medal of purple heart which is given in return of act of valour and bravery in war, the house's latest release - Purple Heart - is a feminine fragrance delivered by Jacques Huclier (the architect of great masculine gourmand, Theirry Mugler A*Men) in 2016.

Wednesday, March 29, 2017

Your daily dose of spring fragrances: an overview on versatile vetivers

Artist unknown, source:

Spring already began, everywhere trees are blooming. The planet renews and smells of air change. Woods smell brittle like fresh flowers and promise of juicy yummy fruits of summer. What can be more delightful than a versatile, wearable musky vetiver with earthy floral nuances? In this post I just randomly come up to name some of those fragrances I like the most whenever I'm not sure what to wear to be casually chic: Diptyque Vetyverio, Medittorosa Nettuno, Ormond Jayne Zizan, The Different Company Sel de Vétiver, and last but not least, L'Occitane en Provence Eau de Vetyver.

King-size aromatics: Roi Sans Équipage by Henry Jacques

Photo taken from

Today's fragrance industry is a battlefield of fame and business, not only for mainstream fashion houses, but also for so-called niches who claim to deliver quality products. But there are names barely heard, barely seen, barely visited in Esxence or any other event. Names that are talked like clandestine legends and Henry Jacques is one of those ultimate points that leaves no aftermath.

Mon gourmand: pros and cons of Mon Guerlain

Photo taken from

While I was thinking how lucky I am for having dear friends who support me with newly-released perfumes, unexpectedly I saw Mon Guerlain in Turkish market just a week after its launch in France! It is a weird condition because many perfumes appear over a year after their official launch (to give clear instance, Chanel Boy is not introduced yet). Guerlain is not an exception and its fragrances usually retard to sit on shelves, and this is the first thing that catches my eye. What is wrong or right with this news pinky that Guerlain insists to have it introduces globally immediately?