Friday, December 1, 2017

Urbanized sandalwood: Comme des Garçons Concrete

Since childhood strange smells of environment that others find disgusting with abhorrent face were, and still are, matter of curiosity for me. That is a gift I had by which I extend boundaries of my google earth over our neighborhood, to nearby farms, meadows and woods, while other children were sentenced to live their miserable childhood on asphalt football courts. I should clarify that my neighborhood then was surrounded by orange farms, paddy fields and several unconstructed lots occupied by birches and poplars. That gave me enough material to grow up organic in city!

Wednesday, November 8, 2017

Fragrance review: Bourreau des Fleurs by Serge Lutens

Few months ago the house of Serge Lutens unveiled a new member of their newly sorted Collection noir named Dent de lait. In addition they announced for birth of a new member of luxury collection of Section d'Or named Bourreau des fleurs. I had been truly antsy to get my hands on and my wish materialized with kindness of a dear friend in the house to whom I'm deeply thankful. While most part of perfumistas and connoisseurs are amused by Dent de lait (for its availability and new 100ml packaging of Collection noir), I found Bourreau des fleurs quite a fancy and intriguing fragrance to jog down.

Thursday, October 12, 2017

Delicious and gentle: Dries Van Noten par Frederic Malle

Neither Frederic Malle, nor the Belgian fashion designer, Dries Van Noten. I want to begin with Bruno Jovanovic - a shady portrait in perfume industry whose name refers for, surprisingly, iconic fragrances, though his name stayed unechoed. Here he is the architect of Dries Van Noten par Frederic Malle. In a collaboration with both Dries Van Noten and French perfume house, Editions de Parfums, Mr. Jovanovic creates a fragrance that reflects Belgian breath and Van Noten's designs. It's fruit of, reportedly, eighteen months of work to emerge a fragrance that smells ambiguously gourmand without being clearly so.

Wednesday, October 11, 2017

Of winds and salty waters: review of Viking by Creed

The house of Creed updates its profile with a new masculine fragrance that signifies modern man and is inspired by resolute devotion to exploration. The new release, Viking, immediately - even long before it officially announced - turned all cameras to the house. It's a Creed after all! The architect behind this scent is Olivier Creed who has been developing the house into new age of perfumery with many modern fragrances for both women and men since 1970's. His passion in voyage and seafaring encouraged him to capture the idea behind his new perfume from Iceland and northern waters where Viking culture originated.

Wednesday, August 9, 2017

A dress to smell: Superstitious by Frederic Malle

It takes guts to come up with a new floral aldehyde in the time the category is reckoned extinct, first and majorly, because this genre is tightly related to memories of past and their era is, begrudgingly, over. Secondly floral aldehyde is a heady floral sparkling soapy category that for its link to past immediately reminds of oldness, muscular weakness and lack of health, which accordingly confront with repulse. Many of the genre are barely loved in public, specially among young generation. Last year Chanel accomplished to revive their legacy with new No5 l'Eau - luminous floral aldehyde - to adapt it to contemporary fashion. Another remarkable work is Dominique Ropion's newest launch for Frédéric Malle. This fragrance is interestingly named Superstitious and more interesting is this perfume is not a modification of an earlier stuff. It's totally new and it's crazy! Nevertheless, it does not face problems Chanel have simply because it is a first class niche tag whose audience scarcely seen in Sephora.

Monday, July 24, 2017

Terroni by Orto Parisi

Alessandro Gulatieri, the nose and artist behind Nasomatto, Orto Parisi and MariaLux lines of fragrances, updates his profile with a new incense-snipping fragrance for Orto Parisi named TerroniAs a non-Italian speaker this is a nice term to pronounce but the term is actually an offensive address to people of south Italian regions. While in urban slang, the term terroni (plural of terrone) seems to be a synonym of redneck in the US, the title is actually a reference to people who work with their hands in traditional methods and yield the earth and form roots of civilization without a shame of being rural or being engaged with farmyards. It is as real as Antonio Ricci in The Bicycle Thief and as lived and weary as portraits in Mario Giacomelli's camera.

Saturday, July 15, 2017

Walls of serenity: En Passant by Frederic Malle

I have been living in Ankara since 2010. A soulless city with concrete buildings and no nature nor water. But if you ask what in this city makes me excited the most I immediately reply scent of lilacs bushes in May. Hanging violet clusters of tiny flower form canopies on tip of their fragile stems. A heavy spring rain gives its scent a dusky face and mixing with smell of soil after rain, lilacs depict a cute sweetness with gray-shaded render that I cannot pass by without breathing it all the way in. En Passant made in 2000 by maestro perfumery Olivia Giacobetti - I should kiss her nose one day - is a rare example of lilac smell in perfumery and also a rare example of post-rain soil. (Not exactly smell of petrichor)

Friday, July 7, 2017

Chic and luxury; part II: Lux by Mona di Orio

Some portraits of perfume art changed my path and my journey in olfactory realm. One of them is Mona di Orio, whose chiaroscuro play of light and darkness evokes my inner dark passenger. A nose who delivered melancholy, darkness, erotism and elegance at once in all her soulful creations. Although after artist's death the house's new policy changed the bottles, juice volume and even created new formulas, MdO is still an elusive artistic brand with greats timeless works. The perfume I'm obsessed to write about, Lux, is a member of Signature Collection delivered in 2006. Before I skip to the scent I should mention another portrait who impressed me is Luca Turin, whose avuncular reviews fascinated me, nevertheless, his thumbing down reviews on many of MdO's works and malice towards herself made me rather intrigued about her creations because happily I have tried them all before I know Turin, otherwise, you know how great his impact is!

Monday, June 19, 2017

From palaces with love: an overview on Parfum d'Empire

Parfum d'Empire is a French niche house of exquisite fragrances which have been established in 2003 by creative director and nose Marc-Antoine Corticchiato. The inspiration source behind creations of this house is ancient empires and olfactory attribution of each depending on their cultures and available materials in their territories, to emerge an illusion of the past's glamour. In this post I shortly review few of their feminine works.

Tuesday, June 13, 2017

Chic and luxury: La Belle Hélène by Parfums MDCI

Chic or luxurious, this is not the question, this is the obsession. Two infinite obsessions with definitions near to each other. For me, general speaking, chic is intellectual, arty, and profoundly weird without making incommodity. It better not to be quintessential and conventional, nor aspirational. Like Picasso or Pollock, or even Keith Haring. They are artistic, or at least they surely were at their own time before they hyped. Art is what thrills you, what disturbs your ordinary mood and makes you out of yourself to look to things in a different view. Shocks you. Chic is charming, like a different style of dressing, an exotic taste, an unfamiliar music.
Luxury, on the other hand, is settled, archetypal and related to comfort, wealth and dainty like saunter with high heels on!