Monday, June 19, 2017

From palaces with love: an overview on Parfum d'Empire

Parfum d'Empire is a French niche house of exquisite fragrances which have been established in 2003 by creative director and nose Marc-Antoine Corticchiato. The inspiration source behind creations of this house is ancient empires and olfactory attribution of each depending on their cultures and available materials in their territories, to emerge an illusion of the past's glamour. In this post I shortly review few of their feminine works.

Tuesday, June 13, 2017

Chic and luxury: La Belle Hélène by Parfums MDCI

Chic or luxurious, this is not the question, this is the obsession. Two infinite obsessions with definitions near to each other. For me, general speaking, chic is intellectual, arty, and profoundly weird without making incommodity. It better not to be quintessential and conventional, nor aspirational. Like Picasso or Pollock, or even Keith Haring. They are artistic, or at least they surely were at their own time before they hyped. Art is what thrills you, what disturbs your ordinary mood and makes you out of yourself to look to things in a different view. Shocks you. Chic is charming, like a different style of dressing, an exotic taste, an unfamiliar music.
Luxury, on the other hand, is settled, archetypal and related to comfort, wealth and dainty like saunter with high heels on!

Saturday, June 10, 2017

Culture has no boundaries: an overview on new works of Dawn Spencer Hurwitz

When we were younger, twenty years ago or so, a silly play with cousins we used to do, when gathered every weekend in grandpa's village house, was chewing crimson rose petals to paint our tongues red! I still remember tea-like metallic taste, fresh dramatic smell, and velvet-like surface of rose petals in my mouth. I clearly recorded the picture of those days, comfortable late-spring sunlight, first cicada chirps over a tall maple in nearby orange farm, juiciness of loquats and smell of grandma's chicken coop.

Wednesday, June 7, 2017

An overview on feminine fragrances by Rancé 1795

© pierre de nishapurHistorically based in Grasse and today based in Milan, the French perfumery house of Rancé 1795 takes its roots back in early 17th century when the family was in scented gloves production and trade for aristocratic society of old France.

Monday, June 5, 2017

Portrait of a gentleman: Brioni Eau de Toilette


© pierre de nishapurDue to a notable growth in the last decades - regardless to cons and pros - the perfume industry is swelled in a colossal scale and categorized in tens of branches. Some simply called mainstreams or designers, aiming to produce ordinary stuff from inferior to middle quality to catch fish from mass marketing and department stores. Finding good quality from this class if finding gold in river; hard labor but possible and once found it's Kuh-i-Noor! Once a while happens to see legendary fragrances like Dior Fahrenheit, Chloé Love, or Chanel Coco Mademoiselle.
Niches, indies, naturals, mainstreams, on and on... the categories are endless and each targets its customers from distinct angle. In this crowded bazaar there's a minority - yet large enough to gather in a group - of couture or tailor houses - mostly Italians - who run a small business of perfume in limited amount and superior quality. Brioni is one of them.

Wednesday, May 31, 2017

I hate roses and I'm not afraid to confess

© pierre de nishapurIt's time to confess, or whatever we call it. I need to declare - as I frequently mentioned here and there - I can't bear roses on me. I even hardly tolerate many roses on others, nevertheless, a fine rose, no matter disliked, is what deserves a decent olfactory discovery. As a fragrance reviewer I am stubborn enough to analyze many roses even if they give me fatal headache and in this post I briefly show how capable I am! I introduce the most brilliant rose fragrances dropped on my way by chance this last months. Anyhow, you bear in mind that my main motto is the more real rose is, the more I avoid!

Roses are one of the most influential materials of perfumery, one of the most ancient ones with centuries of background. They are also symbol of love, lust, romance, and in field of perfumery they are the first thing coming to mind after the term: floral. All these attributions make roses deserving coats of arms!

Friday, April 28, 2017

Swiss knife iris: Iris de Nuit by James Heeley

Ogata Kōrin, Irises at Yatsuhashi, 1709
Spring has already scattered her curtain of silk all over trees of northern hemisphere and you feel it wholly with blossoms and fresh smells in air. What can cheer up a springy day like a decent seamless iris fragrance with powdery and earthy dimensions?!

Friday, April 21, 2017

Vice Versa: Néroli d'Ispahan by Boucheron

Some members of La Collection by Boucheron

Desert of Switzerland, tropical fruits of Siberia, seasides of Mongolia... you feel confused!? Stay with this post...

The fragrance industry is getting seriously spoiled, not only by ephemeral so-called artistic indies, but also by the elders of this trade. I'm not condemning Boucheron only. This post is a bullet targeting many others.

Monday, April 17, 2017

Scent of tobacco, sense of trust: Close Up by Olfactive Studio

Left: close up shut of eye from "Your Beautiful Eyes" series by Suren Manvelyan, left: new bottle of Olfactive Studio

Smell of tobacco and coffee instantly give me sense of trust and friendship. The source of this emotional impression partially comes from the art society I was a member in. Every Tuesday we used gather in our local few blocks down the Armenian district in Tehran in an amber-lighted cafe away from cars and horns, where tobacco boxes, coffee, and handmade pipes are exhibited on shelves to ceiling. Cozy place, friendly environment and good friends... and of course smell of tobacco and coffee.

Friday, April 14, 2017

Where to settle my throne: an overview on Sultan Pasha attars; part I

Photo provided by Sultan Pasha

The policy of seeding market with fragrant luxury tagged with astrological prices with excuse of artistic ideas and high-end exclusives that gives you chance to smell entirely unique stuff, is a new fever of this last years. And ironically, instead of few, most of new-brand houses in this grand bazaar do not survive enough to impress a customer for next purchase of a certain perfume. In such crowded market which looks like an underground performance hall with low ceiling, loud noises and bothersome lights somebody's dancing waltz like nobody is there. He's Sultan Pasha who have introduced his house of attar oils in 2012 and immediately got many positive feedback from perfumistas and renown bloggers.