Friday, March 10, 2017

Exquisite leather, Part IV: Black №1 by House of Matriarch

Being in exactly 180° away from where artisan perfumery clusters, I always feel marooned when the topic comes to this trend of fragrance world. Therefore, when a dear friend of mine gave me a tiny sample of Blackbird (currently named Black 1, with the same formula and new bottle) I seized it with several tests to write my review that lasted one year in overall!

Saturday, March 4, 2017

A fairy tale of nature and memory: Pahodka by YS UZAC

Franz Dvořák, title unknown, 1910

While Switzerland hosts most of fragrance ingredient labs, its perfume houses, instead of few, are mainly undiscovered. YS-Uzac is one of them. Recently I received a sample of their 2011 aromatic leathery composition; Pohadka; that impressed me to write down on this infamous composition.

Wednesday, March 1, 2017

A bouquete of hearts: Le Parfum de Thérèse by Frédéric Malle

Edmund Roudnitska, source:

This last months I was encountering timeless classics and in my discovery I searched for roots and masters of perfumery which took me to a name many paths ends to: Edmond Roudnitska - an influential name reminding of tens of great classics of all times like Eau Sauvage and Diorissimo, Eau d'Hermès, Eau Rochas and Mustache. Also a name who delivered talented and brilliant artists of their own time like Mona di Orio and, master's son Michel Roudnitska. Hats off!

Monday, February 27, 2017

In the galaxy of orange blossoms: Zagara by Norma Kamali

Orange blossom, source: Pinterest
Sense of smell is a strange ability of human that conjures imagination and sensuality, and in a way abstract perception of environment. It is a sense that never understood precisely after mankind stood on two feet and relied on sights which delivered him a power no animal were gifted in that form. Yet, seems the tracks of such comprehensive ability remained with human to torture him with memory! Maybe this is why fragrances always conjure up nostalgia.

Thursday, February 16, 2017

When I was a child goodness was a woman who smells cigarettes: Civet by Zoologist

Photo from

I write on the newest release of Zoologist long after its launch, that itself had been promised to fans earlier in late 2016. Since I'm the last to talk about Civet, I guess I have no space for chattering about this or that of the fragrance and should directly go to the impressions but this perfume is so forceful in emotions.

When my precious friend Victor Wong, shared news about an upcoming launch named Civet that is composed by renown American nose - Shelley Waddington, who formerly delivered poetic and delicate Hummingbird - my eyes glittered, as I'm an animalic lover, but at the same time I though Zoologist probably gets on a dangerous Alpine ridge cause civet musk is not kidding...

Monday, November 14, 2016

Quintessential fougère: Bracken Men by Amouage

Do you notice how Amouage is inclining to western genres? Do you like new Amouage? I do actually. I'm not a fond of savage Interlude Men or extremist smoky Fate Men but my eyes flashed like evil characters in cartoons for a bright future when I tried Amouage Sunshine Men, however, it is not mature enough to woo me but enough different from prior veins to move leery towards western moods. Bracken Men entirely surfs in vintage European - kind of English - authentic fougère atmosphere which the title actually indicates, for which I should confess I like Amouage more than when Gold, Epic and Memoir were stars of the house. For me those mammoth fuliginous and berserk incenses are smells that cannot be encapsulated in bottle to present a culture. Culture cannot be delivered in a flacon. But smart director of Amouage - Christopher Chong - draws the line into more favorable direction and surpasses. I think by this I'm the only one who loves Interlude with magnetic cap!

Unusual leather: Cuir de Russie by Le Jardin Retrouvé

Yuri Gutsatz' legacy who founded the house perfumery of Le Jardin Retrouvé in 1975 is today followed by his son - Michel Gutsatz - and his wife who rejuvenated the traditional house and enlivened the formulas once again with new apparel. They introduce seven classical compositions based on most elaborate trends of past from different categories and my beloved one is always the leathery one: Cuir de Russie, an unusual leather and a different olfactory experience. 

Galop d'Hermès: a u-turn or a new nose for that old style?

Ralph Lauren 2012 campaign

Perhaps title of "the most surprising perfume of the year" should be granted to Galop d'Hermès which is not only a debatable fragrance but also a great u-turn in brand's portfolio. Consequently, the news about retiring Jean-Claude Ellena for fans of Hermès was as shocking as 2016 presidential election of the States for entire world! Obviously Ellena put great deal of effort to sign over the equestrian footprints elder perfumers has inscribed on Hermès' resumé. With minimalist, transparent, verdant and modest compositions, the monk of perfumery has enchanted many hearts (while I was never a fond of his works for Hermès) and entered the hall of most popular perfumers of last decades. Yet, Galop d'Hermès, is the first independent fragrance after separation of Ellena, made by his heir - Christine Nagel - who appeared in Hermès with her Eau de Rhubarbe Écarlate. Now many eyes are awaited for her next move to encounter the path the brands will pass; even for me who doesn't put Hermès in priority, it's like the very moment before the trigger is pulled in a Russian roulette duel.

Friday, November 11, 2016

A marine lavender: Le Barbier de Tanger by Parfums MDCI

Parfums MDCI which I hesitate to simply call a niche perfume house, didn't announce for their latest release; Le Barbier de Tanger. MDCI is a not-that-large house of perfumery with a gigantic effect and participation in perfume industry that puts mercenary aims in second degree of priority after timeless compositions from past in high quality. This is why I respect the house while not all their creations are on my radar.

Thursday, November 10, 2016

Rahele by Neela Vermeire: Does east truly meets west?

East as cradle of civilization has always been synonym of mystery for prior centuries' human. This might be the very reason to draw curious westerns to the ancient eastern lands for discovery which took centuries of traveling, frustrating routes and galaxies of expenses, by a result of which, today it is not a surprise to see hundreds of publishing in libraries prepared by those who once put their everything to encounter unseen and untold of the world in east. Neela Vermeire's latest release - Rahele - is homage to three French travelers (Jean-Baptiste Tavernier, Francois Bernier and Jean Thevenot) who independently and individually find their path in India. Literally Rahele is an Arabic term meaning traveler woman (letter "e" at the end of the word indicated to femininity in Arabic).