Monday, November 14, 2016

Quintessential fougère: Bracken Men by Amouage


Do you notice how Amouage is inclining to western genres? Do you like new Amouage? I do actually. I'm not a fond of savage Interlude Men or extremist smoky Fate Men but my eyes flashed like evil characters in cartoons for a bright future when I tried Amouage Sunshine Men, however, it is not mature enough to woo me but enough different from prior veins to move leery towards western moods. Bracken Men entirely surfs in vintage European - kind of English - authentic fougère atmosphere which the title actually indicates, for which I should confess I like Amouage more than when Gold, Epic and Memoir were stars of the house. For me those mammoth fuliginous and berserk incenses are smells that cannot be encapsulated in bottle to present a culture. Culture cannot be delivered in a flacon. But smart director of Amouage - Christopher Chong - draws the line into more favorable direction and surpasses. I think by this I'm the only one who loves Interlude with magnetic cap!

Unusual leather: Cuir de Russie by Le Jardin Retrouvé


Yuri Gutsatz' legacy who founded the house perfumery of Le Jardin Retrouvé in 1975 is today followed by his son - Michel Gutsatz - and his wife who rejuvenated the traditional house and enlivened the formulas once again with new apparel. They introduce seven classical compositions based on most elaborate trends of past from different categories and my beloved one is always the leathery one: Cuir de Russie, an unusual leather and a different olfactory experience. 

Galop d'Hermès: a u-turn or a new nose for that old style?

Ralph Lauren 2012 campaign

Perhaps title of "the most surprising perfume of the year" should be granted to Galop d'Hermès which is not only a debatable fragrance but also a great u-turn in brand's portfolio. Consequently, the news about retiring Jean-Claude Ellena for fans of Hermès was as shocking as 2016 presidential election of the States for entire world! Obviously Ellena put great deal of effort to sign over the equestrian footprints elder perfumers has inscribed on Hermès' resumé. With minimalist, transparent, verdant and modest compositions, the monk of perfumery has enchanted many hearts (while I was never a fond of his works for Hermès) and entered the hall of most popular perfumers of last decades. Yet, Galop d'Hermès, is the first independent fragrance after separation of Ellena, made by his heir - Christine Nagel - who appeared in Hermès with her Eau de Rhubarbe Écarlate. Now many eyes are awaited for her next move to encounter the path the brands will pass; even for me who doesn't put Hermès in priority, it's like the very moment before the trigger is pulled in a Russian roulette duel.

Friday, November 11, 2016

A marine lavender: Le Barbier de Tanger by Parfums MDCI


Parfums MDCI which I hesitate to simply call a niche perfume house, didn't announce for their latest release; Le Barbier de Tanger. MDCI is a not-that-large house of perfumery with a gigantic effect and participation in perfume industry that puts mercenary aims in second degree of priority after timeless compositions from past in high quality. This is why I respect the house while not all their creations are on my radar.

Thursday, November 10, 2016

Rahele by Neela Vermeire: Does east truly meets west?


East as cradle of civilization has always been synonym of mystery for prior centuries' human. This might be the very reason to draw curious westerns to the ancient eastern lands for discovery which took centuries of traveling, frustrating routes and galaxies of expenses, by a result of which, today it is not a surprise to see hundreds of publishing in libraries prepared by those who once put their everything to encounter unseen and untold of the world in east. Neela Vermeire's latest release - Rahele - is homage to three French travelers (Jean-Baptiste Tavernier, Francois Bernier and Jean Thevenot) who independently and individually find their path in India. Literally Rahele is an Arabic term meaning traveler woman (letter "e" at the end of the word indicated to femininity in Arabic).

Sunday, November 6, 2016

Three jewels from east by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz

Dawn has chosen the cutest roller samples vials this time!

There's always a feeling of discovery of unknown with creations of Dawn Spencer Hurwitz of DSH Perfumes. Her creations are always intriguing and familiar, a paradoxical feature that barely happens in ordinary trends of perfumery. Dawn comes up with several releases of 2016 in her portfolio which I take three of them to review: Axis MundiSouvenir de Malmaison, Chinchilla. The main theme of the trio is on the same spirit; spicy, warm and sensual.

Saturday, November 5, 2016

Strong, enchanting and mysterious: Sheiduna by Puredistance


Here we are with the latest release of Puredistance in collaboration with Cécile Zarokian; the perfumer who is frequently glittered this last months for her efforts for higher class perfumeries. By the beginning of 2016 she delivered Fêtes Persanes for Parfums MDCI which is spice coated with spice, and aftermath four fragrances for Jacques Fath and several others meantime, she is now the nose behind Sheiduna. Cécile Zarokian's expression of spice is unique to herself. She's goddess of spices and she reflects her imagination once again in Sheiduna; the latest fragrance of Puredistance.

Sunday, October 30, 2016

Intimate, sensual, intense: An interview with Francesca Bianchi


My friendship with Francesca Bianchi began before I even know she makes perfumes. She shared some samples of her own collection with me which I still keep them in my collection. But the true connection began when she sent me her first set of samples which where unfiltered perfume oils in vials tagged with numbers like No 25, No 12, etc. They were dense and oriental with special ancient spirit. Today with her three official perfumes, I can strongly declare her path through her olfactory discovery is loyally maintained on the same air. Francesca Bianchi has a personal point of view into perfumery, into ambrosial and oriental composition, which is defined by density, carnality and artistic ancient ambiance.

Tuesday, October 25, 2016

Fragrance confidential: YeYe Parfums


After every Esxence or Pitti Fragranze which I could not admit, I search through new perfumeries to check if any laudable house has entered the industry. There are so many listed in news column of perfume databases and it gives me a chance to evaluate their portfolio one by one. Many of them are not what we're exactly looking for, some begin very strong but on same vein of mainstream fashion of so-called niches which present over 10 irrelevant-to-each-other fragrances at once and no progress aftermath. Just few of them remain in my bucket to evaluate and YeYe is one of them that deserves a rapt attention.

Friday, October 21, 2016

Spring with autumnal gloom: Bas de Soie by Serge Lutens

Photo by Guy Bourdin

This last days I re-racked a pile of homeless samples and gave them a new shelf and order. Meanwhile I came across some undiscovered fragrances, one of which is Bas de Soie by Serge Lutens. I usually put few reviews between two reviews from one house unless a new release come at my door or an intriguing case tickle me to speak about, though briefly.