Thursday, April 30, 2015

Dark and evocative

Burqa eau Fine by SoOud


Ink in perfumery is "granny" category search of pornographic sites for a teenager boy who may not be interested unless under pressures of curiosity. Cause normally it is not a charming babe for perfumes. It plays better as catalyst in relation with dark and blackened compositions to emerge rather darker vibes that can be soothed by rum chord which is absent in Burqa. Comme des Garçons once employed ink in their top seller perfume; 2; and it was not that convincing as when someone sees ink among the notes being rated beside aldehydes. Meo Fusciuni also has an intriguing perfume on ink; Notturno; that blows my mind but that is only for the opening and the dry down is overdose of Iso E Super and white musk aura. Burqa but is a fine dark fragrance; modest and gentle; approving skillful talents of master perfumery.
Burqa opens with exotically woodsy accords darkened and boosted with black ink nuances. A slight portion of ink in the very opening to give a senseless gray face to woodsy accord, is fairly enough to make it enticing and highly intriguing. Then ink gradually submerges and imbues into leather and wood accord. The leather accord; although very pale and soft; reminds me the very leather employed in Russian Tea by Masque Milano. Interesting part of Burqa is that it is an oriental perfume and oud (as pale as one may strongly disagree its presence) only gives an enigmatic air to the overall composition without being blazing or notable.


After deceptive performance of ink/teakwood brothers in the opening a light floriental subtitles adds to the main dark theme and inhabits in every cell of the elements of composition. Rose and violet. Violet is actually much higher than rose but in Fragrantica members overvoted two notes: rose which is not that high, and ink which I believe is voted upon excitement, irrationally. The foot of Burqa is even more aromatic and slightly creamy. Notes are now chained into each other. Cardamom gives tragic nostalgia drama to violet and to woodsy maintheme.
Burqa is a fine fragrance with all the notes balanced and appropriately assembled, however I'm afraid I haven't got any hint of some notes listed. The perfume itself is quite satisfying, so as the design.
But I don't understand the logic behind the title cause burqa, as dress or veil to hide and cover women beneath, is emblem of religious misogyny and sexual discrimination.

Carpe Odor!

Wednesday, April 29, 2015

Feminine identity

Loukhoum Parfum du Soir by Keiko Mecheri


This is the first I tried from the house of Keiko Mecheri and the very first time I tested, it unveiled a huge curtain over this rare to find anonymous house. Type of fragrance that brings humongous grin to my face, makes me leave my sit and walk excitedly here and over the place!
Loukhoum Parfum du Soir is the intensified and twisted version of original pink gem; Loukhoum by Keiko Mecheri; which both are magnificent and mesmerizing type of feminine fragrance which I instantly fell in love for! It's an oriental vanilla sweet dark almond-based perfume which borrows the title from a famous candy: Lokum.

Lokum (راحت الحلقوم), as pronounced here is the name of a vast variety of Middle Eastern delight with unidentified originality of contrivance; however; having a large territory back in days, Ottoman empire has entitled many candies and cuisines under its name, one of which might be lokum which has an Arabic name. This candy is made by starch, water, sugar and some optional additions like syrups, rosewater, and nuts.

Different types and tastes of lokums! Yuuum!

OK, let's back to our topic! Loukhoum (to avoid writing the long title "Loukhoum" is the actual perfume one I'm talking about) opens with austere dry cutesy mawkish nuances of dark burnt sweet taste of almond which is so straight and does not devoid anything in clarity. Considering the notes, my humble expectation was a fluffy pillowy sensual feminine scent but this is way much different...
Vanilla, almond, benzoin, honey, rose, agarwood, patchouli, tonka bean
For the notes assorted, one may like to compare this to Kilian Back to Black or Givenchy Pi and he wouldn't be completely wrong since, in fact, there are bold similarities, yet the matter is that nothing resembles Loukhoum but its other versions. There's a big paradox in the opening between the cinematic evil darkness and cute feminine delicacy and it is this paradox that makes Loukhoum an abstruse and perplexing perfume. All its aspects are intricately abstract that is presented in an unity which can be categorized under nighty romantic gourmand.
After cheerful opening the perfumes goes the same way linearly to soft dry out within few hours. The almonds are still at top, as strong as there's no place for oud and patchouli but they contribute to the overall charm of the fragrance; then rose and tonka bean and benzoin; which are the keys to heaven in this perfume; find opportunity to show up.


The bombastic fragrance has now settled in its grown and mature age with prominent vanilla filled with almond that guarantees a soft sensual velvety dry down while the mysterious feel is still maintained by oud wood and soft patchouli.
Loukhoum Parfum du Soir is an elaborate masterpiece which I fell in love for by all my heart, but I don't surprise if the original Loukhoum is still much fancier and much famous cause this version has all her beauty in the opening till middle of heart layer and what remains in the base is just a soft hint of obscure and summarized story of what has happened in the beginning. By other mean, the complete fragrance is not that extraordinary as the beginning.

Carpe Odor!

Monday, April 27, 2015

From the remote continent

Bud Parfums
Satyr, If, and Assassin


Bud Parfums is an Australian indie perfume house established by Howard Jarvis; an innovative perfumer, ex-fashion photographer, and herbalist whose efforts result in limited quantity, high quality of material, literally exotic moods and reasonable price. In their perfume boutique you can also pick your desired bottle and refill it every time you visit them. The bottles can be designed for glass artists to make! This must be the very definition of indie art of perfumery! Certainly, you can order your bespoke or chose from the ready to wear limited amount of perfumes Howard have created.


Satyr


As the given title suggests Satyr is a lustful and lascivious active type of modern vintage fragrance with deep inclination to natural perfumery. A retro heritage reminder based of woodsy and floriental patchouli.
Opens dry and floral green with orange blossom in extreme oil form mingled with jasmine and nutmeg to emerge a balance in floral spicy duet. Then (only my guess) hints of ylang-ylang appears imparted with labdanum and patchouli. The fragrance had already shown its true face since the beginning: dense, oily oriental, incense like type of intimating warmth presented but the most skin-mate erotic smells.
Satyr is not a urban type of smell; or at least not in its western definition. As it goes shades on patchouli and oakmoss (a classical duet) appear while we already have patchouli and landanum trying to penetrate the structure of basic skeleton and it is vetiver that keeps the balance of the complete fragrance which evolves after ah hour. It's burnt sweet, semi-smoky, soft dark fulvous brown and mystical.
Satyr has higher than normal presentation; longevity is so good, sillage is great.


Assassin


Assassin is a straight descriptive type of fragrance with easy to solve complexity. Full of easy to guess notes merged in a mystical maze form that differentiating each note needs at least a sample to wear and try as I did! Assassin is a lush spicey gourmand raider with bay rum, dried rose petals and some narcotic notes. A mysterious bright and warm waxy type of ancient organic smell, representing nothing but Middle Eastern crowded bazaars. It's sharp and striking exotic that grabs your attention.
It's a timeless fragrance that inclines more to modern than classics, however it suggest original oriental spicy vibe which might look like classics. Immensely warm, stingy, a bit skank and nasty which I like, without any animalic nuances. It's exactly like a walk in mideastern bazaars!


If


I have been so impressed by the way If presented the most realistic earthy frankincense ever. The volume of the resins is loyally natural and pure as cropped in nature with very very bright and deep newly hint of sawed wood and saw dust.
The opening is on captivating resinous unsweet soft powdery soft smoky air of sacred ancient resin: olibanum. It merges into its mother; the wood; and embraces the whole structure. More than bergamot, lemon is giving the composition fresh lazy leisure happiness. Bay leaf also puts on aromatic side of the composition.
The base of the fragrance is on pale hints of incense swallowed by Jarvis' famous patchouli, sandalwood, and labdanum. It's so sensual, so fluffy and tender like velvet blanket petting nude body.
If is a minimal and naturalistic presentation of olibanum and woodsy accords, composed by few basic oils.
Mellow and moderate longevity and sillage.

Carpe Odor!

Sunday, April 26, 2015

Orto Parisi aromagraphy

Orto Parisi aromagraphy:
Boccanera, Viride, Bergamask, Stercus, and Brutus


Orto Parisi is an Amsterdam-based project including five fragrances delivered by the same author responsible for Maria Lux and Nasomatto perfumes: Alessandro Gualtieri; whose new style in perfumery arguably made him one of the most famous celebrities in this field these last years. He began the line of Orto Parisi after he officially announced that he will no longer add to Nasomatto line. The line's theoretical scoop is to remind us our nature and animalic side of our humanity is tamed and restrained by our growth towards civilization. We forget ourselves, our bodies, parts of it and smell of each part.
The parts of the body that carry more smell are those where more soul is collected.
Orto Parisi includes five fragrances with expected unusual patterns towards the offbeat mood presented in Nasomatto fragrances: Bergamask, Boccanera, Viride, Stercus, and Brutus. All the fragrances are delivered in 2014.
The strong smells have become unpleasant to us, because the excess of soul is intolerable to the extent that our innate animalism is repressed and breaking from civilization.

Unlike Nasomatto which is now almost a mass-marketed niche line, the fragrances of Orto Parisi line seems to be less known and less distributed as they are available only in few online boutiques. Both Nasomatto and Orto Parisi perfumes are common in extrovert DNA of Gualtieri's works that drives egos of all his perfumes. So these five fragrances are less or more on the same ambiance presented by Nasomatto and if you're looking for something innovative in Orto Parisi, you're digging the wrong soil.
This project is my garden I have planted, fertilized, cultivated, and harvested. Orto Parisi states that our body is experienced like a garden, and its smells are a true mirror of our soul.
For his efforts on NasomattoThe Nose had opened his path through this hard to climb mountain of fame in perfume world and became an icon in this field and a pioneer for new generation of perfumers. Gualtieri's trick is emerging a totally modern ambiance in fragrance realm with no root to prior creations that is a considerable success point. Certainly ad campaigns, verbally presented concepts, use of weed as ingredient, and his fashionable way of presentation are all other keys of his successful career.
The idea rooted from the fact that he, my grandfather Vincenzo, used buckets to collect both his needs that timely ended up fertilizing the garden. In his garden hovered an air of infinite.

To my grandfather Vincenzo Parisi and to those that seize the time in experiencing and diffusing the perfume of life.




Viride

Viride (means Green in Latin) is a green composition based on herbal grassy notes, slightly sweetened by synthetic woody chord and the same pseudo weed/oud combo repeated in many creations of Gualtieri; a minimal combo that tries to show pompously. What I don't like about the oud Gualtieri employs (less or more the same used in Carner Barcelona creations, specially Cuirs) is its insisting-to-be-Mideastern aspect. His oud is totally watery and kind of mechanical western life ready-to-blend type of oud.
The opening is somehow reminiscent of those artworks of classic era which had been considered very modern and pioneering back in their days (but not a bold reference just a faint remembrance). For such beginning I guess it includes oakmoss molecule augmented by hay and herbaceous notes providing a dry green wild presentation, that sadly lasts about half and hour then it turns to nothing at all (both in presentation and in smell pattern) to a silly level for that I have to say Viride is only an opening fragrance; a facade of a building which inner rooms and structures are all collapsed. No depth, no innovation.
So after about half an hour you; no matter how much do you love it; turn thumb down. The sub layer's scaffolding is tied by uncontrolled use of incognito synthetic woody accords that does not evoke the feel of smelling a fragrance for that it's hard to categorize Viride under a certain aromatic group, and hard to identify it by certain terminology representing specific senses, cause it's a dynamic type of smell that is not a perfume. Anyway, even the opening is quite pale and vaporish on my skin and I'm one of the members who rated both longevity and sillage in Fragrantica to the least extent.


Bergamask


Very deliberate hint of tangerine in the very opening as represented in Jean-Claude Elena's refined colognes collaborating with uncreamy purified bergamot odor is what you get in the opening. The opening is really good with this citric play. I think I get hints of vetiver in the following and it's so pale and smooth, dusty and earthy. A deep and remote sign of soft white musky animalic ambiance changes the whole structure that had presented in the opening and turns it to a watered down soft pretentious "nothing" for that you'll be charged 138€ for nothing especial but a given name and a bottle design! Tried to design a psychotic level of musk and citrus but what presented is totally incoherent to what desired.
Very low skin-dweller sillage and with that mediocre longevity one may think that you squeezed lemon and smell so for that.



Stercus


Dung? I turned its name from Latin and it means dung! For the sake of that ugly ass in the picture above, the color and the title made me think that someone created a perfume for anal sex concept, but don't judge a book by its cover!
Stercus is an active and urbanized monster in animalic range. Unlike the two I reviewed above this one is much satisfactory and beyond. For the very familiarity to Black Afgano and Pardon in the main theme and specially opening, I've got to indicate that Stercus with its fierce main theme is a complementary edition of Black Afgano. It owes instant synthetic gourmand theme from Pardon and oud green weedy watery vibe of grayness from Black Afgano. It actually much resembles to another Orto Parisi creations which I review in the following: Boccanera.
It’s irresponsible to any urbanization and social life rules, wild and free as a monkey in dark jungles, but it does no hurt. Beside it’s wild and Tarzan’ish attraction, it has a very classy and compliment bringer fragrance, a versatile monstrous fragrance.
The opening of Stercus is green dark and gray with promising nuances of notorious sweetness of punk chocolate molecule employed in Pardon mingled with intense leather subtitles. The very opening show the whole structure of Stercus that like all his creations is full chemical perfumery (nothing to do with that "as all perfumers know, synthetics are the essence of modern perfume. Creating a perfume without them is like painting a picture without blues or reds")! As it goes the vibes of red pepper and chocolate increase and the composition turns a bit sweeter, loses oud air of the initiation. Stercus is not dark or smoky, it's softer and gray misty dry versatile and easier to wear version of Black Afgano and it's nice in fact but it hasn't got anything new and it walks on the way that had been passed by Nasomatto's army before, so if you own each of them, specially Black Afgano, you don't need to smash your piggy for it.
Happily, the longevity and sillage are both enormous.



Brutus


OK, let's get rid of the house's nonsense scoop on Brutus (Inspired by Roman senator Marcus Junius Brutus, who was known for his lack of eloquence, a heady citrus opening and deeply redolent woodsiness combine for a scent that might try to kill you, but will at least have the integrity to attack you face-to-face.) and judge the scent the way it is and it is really touching. Bearing in mind that a huge percent of Gualtieri's creations contain purely man-mades, my first impression on Brutus was "how gorgeously synthetic science can make replica of all natural scents!". Brutus does not go far in innovation or bizarre atmosphere; and this certainly is the fact behind being so lovesome.
It initiates with chefly blended ripe mandarin with patchouli and unlisted vetiver and cacao. Also I like to share that I capture some gin accord. What is interesting for me is that I don't get the famous DNA of Nasomatto and other four creations of the line in Brutus. Instead, I acquire a twisted warm waxy stony ungourmand candy form that stays paradoxical, yet, constructs an abutment for the main theme. The main theme which was predictable from that brilliant opening is on more patchouli and several synthetics that had not exposed in the beginning and I'm somehow confused with their plurality. All I get is smooth oud accord, some strange sandalwood, soft ambroxan or any sort of fluffy luxurious smooth soapy musky note, and probably some resins and woods. But I can't assure even in slightest percent for any of them instead of sandalwood since this guy usually goes with such unrealistic aromas that one might never directly link to a natural product.
The dry down comes upon defeat of citric layer. Patchouli got married to imaginary cacao and sandalwood (what a hot threesome!) to provide shallow warmth that is controlled and balanced with dusty earthy vetiver. For such mesmerizing long lasting layer, Brutus is the most versatile and mass pleaser creation in the line.
Good longevity but moderate sillage.



Boccanera


As the nose himself mentions, Boccanera derives the main theme from emblematic Black Afgano which is synonym to Gualtieri's manifestos. Translating from Italian, Boccanera means black "mouth" upon that he describes: Nature offers dark holes that express sensuality in an erotic dark way, and this fragrance is no exception.
Boccanera is a gourmand version of what Black Afgano offers; the same weedy vapor encapsulated with chili peppered sandalwood and souvenir from Pardon: chocolate. In a high percent I'm strongly sure that I'm scanning the same chemical oud presented mostly in Nasomatto. That is for the opening where tiny molecules find apt time to show up; ginger, peppers, watery oud and probably weed. For the rest of presentation after about an hour from application, sandalwood sits on the throne; chocolatized and slightly peppered. Tries to expose solid and damp like pure sandalwood but it's really hard to get rid of stain of Gualtieri's notorious chemical oud!
Just like its predecessor, Boccanera performs strong and long lasting with enormous sillage.

In overall, you don't need to collect all the perfume here or in Nasomatto. All I get is a main theme twisted specially for each bottle but still the main theme is the same; kind of signature.

Carpe Odor!

Saturday, April 25, 2015

Red washed walls of qasbah, blue tiles of courtyard

02 l'Air du Désert Marocain by Tauer


Tauer is an indie house of fragrance with almost limited release for particular niche markets but No02 has another story. I don't know Andy's sales and distribution statistic charts but No02 is the symbol of top seller indies and a strong link between indies and niche luxury markets. Although, Andy Tauer's taste is boldly personal as he follows a main theme in all his creations, No02 seems to have that taste less in versatile way for that it is, by far, the most famous creation of Andy Tauer. Once a friend said "no professional collection is complete without this perfume" and No02 is the fix member of every collection containing at least one Tauer perfume. Andy Tauer with this noble creation puts finger on my weak point and I really cannot stop sniffing my wrist.
This perfume is usually identified by reviewers and bloggers with illustration of desert air; rightfully! For western people such mysterious enigma is representative of an inexperienced climate, nevertheless, for my Middle Eastern nose this is exactly the organic pattern of cities of the region. More or less, everybody knows I'm an architect and my research field and profession is Middle Eastern courtyard houses and this perfume gives me the very comfort and euphoria I feel every time I visit a courtyard house for my studies. To deliver the idea I explain courtyard house in an appendix.


Top notes: coriander, cumin, petitgrain
Heart notes: rock rose, jasmine
Base notes: cedar, vetiver, ambergris

The long day's warmth is now abating. The fat old orange sun is now setting. It's comfort time. No02 does not embody this dreamy picturesque of desert sunset in its opening layer. The opening layer which is enveloping by pseudo-woodsy/aldehyde stream is more inclined to be upset and heady. It's on caraway deeply saturated with fresh spicy nose-tickling coriander that gives smoldering fresh air to the woodsy combination. A bit later the composition settles and the ripples are dead. Now you're on your way from crowded spicy smelly red washed walls of qasbah to light blue tiled inner courtyard of home to find the remedy in the courtyard, totally cut off from the outside mess, relaxed and languid like all alone weightless in somewhere out of this world. The mood of light colored walls and tiles, fresh smell of wet soil on foot of lemon saplings planted here and there in the courtyard, that bright tranquil breeze freshened by the homey luxury water dance of well in the center of the place, all narcotize to loosen your body! It is ambery chords (rising from the base of the fragrance) that provides this comfortable aura. Consequently, the basic buddies; cedar and vetiver; come up and give more smoky woody boost to the fresh aromatic composition; yet they maintain the fresh burning main theme uplifted.


02 l'Air du Désert Marocain is a dramatic and fluent fragrance that exposes original aspects of Middle Eastern atmosphere without being worried about "how to establish in European markets?" question. It's a twisted fragrance on aromatic spicy category that instantly resembles something very familiar that I can't remember now. For the composition, all the notes are assorted in the most possible artistic ratio and disposition. It's a night and evening fragrance, mostly masculine but not merely, fresh burning, aromatic, and sillage and longevity are both robust with fair degree of intensity. 02 l'Air du Désert Marocain is a masterpiece that deserves a blind buy.


Appendix
The idea and architectural module of courtyard house (precisely; inner courtyard house cause courtyard has different meaning and comes from western architecture) is commonplace in every corner of the Mid-Eastern regions and it has two major factors behind its creation: climate and religion.
A courtyard house is an introvert architecture with no facade but tall washed walls at outside; and ornamented facades toward the inner central courtyard. In this module the courtyard is the head of house that identifies all the spaces, theirs functions, and the spatial relationship between the rooms. It provides a comfortable space for rest and leisure, a private totally free small society needless from out-home population, and spectacular view. In general it tries to regenerate an image of comfortable life in heaven and it illustrates it with water, trees and privacy. Although most part of society in the region are Muslims the concept of inner courtyard has not borrowed its roots in Islamic culture necessarily while there are numerous examples from pre-Islamic periods and non-Muslim regions.
The Middle East is the cradle of mankind and so as that for many great religions; for that; there's no surprise that it is tightly chained to culture and believes. Religious or let's call cultural aspect of inner courtyard identifies it as a highly private place totally secured from outside.


The most famous inner courtyard house modules in the Middle East are Moroccan, Iranian, and Syrian which are way different to each other, yet the concepts are the same. However, this module is not dedicated to the middle east while it's vast territory extends from China to Europe.
Today, for the growth of implemented changes towards modern western lifestyle (that has historical roots in industrial revolutions of 19th century) upon organic urban pattern of the Middles East (Urbanization in the Middle East by Vincent Francis Castello is a perfect source for this issue) inclination to live in flats and apartments is increasing and courtyard houses are no longer economic for their vast and huge area (the area of some of these houses exceeds beyond thousand square meter in lot area and even rather more in total area of all floors; for instance, the total area of Ameri house in Kashan is approximately 13,000m²). Since the value of each square meter increased, most of these houses are treasures that sooner or later are going to be demolished.

Carpe Odor!

An impressive oud fragrance

Oud Imperial by Perris Monte Carlo


I really don't know the background of this brand and Fragrantica says they are based in Monaco. Wherever they are whoever they are, they do their job the best way! It was last year that I saw Perris perfumes on the shelves for the first. They were new comers and I was pretty excited for the glimmering bottles!
Well Oud Imperial has an interesting note pyramid:

Top notes: jasmine, caraway
Heart notes: incense, patchouli, agarwood, saffran
Foot notes: blackwood, sandalwood, vetiver, labdanum, Atlas cedar

The mentioned notes in the opening layer are pale and the fragrance opens incredibly bold with oud layer and woodsy accords that smells sophisticated. In fact I'm a liar if I say there's no caraway in the initiation cause the woodsy vibe is prettily cured and pickled by the spice but it's not the caraway employed in Parfum d'Empire and Serge Lutens creations. If you're fan of powdery dark woody fragrances you will have been trapped in the first sniff. Beside there's indolic attributed hints on oud, type of sknaky/delightful floral sign that comes from jasmine.
Dear Sebastian Jara has a nice descriptive video review on his youtube channel (Man Loves Cologne) in that he perfectly nails the point all the way down and gives a nice example for the scent: old library! I have to second his point as the fragrance has two aspects a perfume needs to resemble an old library: smell of old timbers and damp nasty smell of old books. I can add something from my own olfactory experience and it's the smell of old carpets rolled and stored in lumber covered dark attic floor. I have to indicate that I might disagree with his opinion about the skanky side of agarwood in this fragrance that he says "it's not a dirty skanky kind of an oud" (with full regards to his knowledge and experience) cause I obviously have the nasty animality of the oud in my nostrils right now. Of course, Oud Imperial is not offensive as Aoud series of Montale are. It's softer, gentle and quite versatile and wearable. A hint of sour damp medicinal vibe; that oud is famous for; gives me the clue that the oud is most probably from Laos. 

A guitar body made of Malaysian blackwood

All the beauty Oud Imperial delivers is not focused upon oud and all since there are two main factors in the combination: incense and blackwood. I have worked with several types of wood for the furniture and sculptures I made but I don't know blackwood and I didn't even know it before I know this fragrance. This wood has a distinct type of smell. It smells like an unique and rare lumber cut under machine saw and this is its mysterious dark sexy smell that makes Oud Imperial an extraordinary offer. You see how pleasantly it amplifies the oud in the rightest possible way and gives it a powdery, dark and darker philosophical facet when the fragrance settles in the base layer. Incense is not a dominant player in this fragrance and beside vetiver and caraway, gives their touch palely  and launch the woody by-play. 
Considering some well-known oud works like Roja Dove's works, Oud Imperial might be in the middle levels but it's a mandatory for every fan of wearable oudy fragrances.

Carpe Odor!

Friday, April 24, 2015

Easy, simple, beautiful like modern arts

Ego Facto: an aromagraphy


In these days of crowded and confusing bazaar of perfumes the fragrances of Ego Facto are like real vanilla flavored ice-cream that now is just a dreamy taste remained from childhood! Collaborating with great names in perfume world (such as Antoni Morillas and Dominique Ropion et al), Pierre Aulas; the creator and manager of the house; has delivered seven fragrances titled after musics of past decades from Lord Huron to Beyoncé. And the scents are reminiscent of non-dark simpler releases of late 90's and early years of the third millennium. The general aspect of Ego Facto perfumes are their simplicity, aromatic and amusing non complex emotional features.


Me, Myself and I
This perfume is a feminine one created by Jean Guichard and Aurelien Guichard. It's floral fresh and semi-aquatic juicy with apple opening plus unblossomed tuberose. Then its vetiver appears. Actually, in this level it gets close to masculine side as well and loses its floral side a bit. Me, Myself and I is a fresh floral woodsy fragrance that reminds me some memorable inexpensive items of 90's air.


Piége à Filles

It is a fresher and softer version of Givenchy Pi made by Anne Flipo. Same almond composed with citrus notes and hyacinth concludes to semi-burnt, semi-waxy and dry sparkling sweet dusty vibe. Citruses play a green herbaceous role of 80's perfumes but it stays more recent.

Jasmin le Dimanche

Certainly it is Alberto Morillas' work! He's expert in aquatic and aromatic scents. First of all, don't let that cannabis among the notes fool you. It's a fresh incense vibe of sweet green orange-like full aquatic fragrance. It reminds me some of Bvlgari and Hugo Boss man series that you can find in every corner of small perfume shops.


Fool for Love

Harsh uncommon opening of Laurent Bruyère's creation is almost repulsive and it grown in the same direction till the floral side opens. Fool for Love is a sort of modern/vintage everyday fragrance for women. It's a floral fruity woody fragrance. Although it's warm and sweet it provides good moods for summer wear for its uprising coconut that dominated dry down level. All it needs is you to give it a go.


Poopoo Pidoo

Now this is really different, not because it's Dominique Ropion's but I rate for the scent itself. Poopoo Pidoo is a sweet zesty creamy amber with modern oriental damp opening on rice that makes powdery gourmand air when it merges into orange blossom. It resembles some feminine colognes of 80's in a faint aquatic musky theme. This is the best and happiest one from the collection in my opinion.


Sacré Coeur

It is very interesting fragrance and it is Laurent Bruyère's. Opens with joyful and happy fruity side mixed with zesty lemon like a fruit cocktail boozed with unstable fresh grape wine. Leather and aromatic fruity tobacco appear and both are infused but fruity opening. Sacré Coeur is an aromatic fruity woody fragrance, slightly sweet, springy and full of ginger nuances in dry down. It's a fine unisex fragrance.

Prends Garde à Toi

Oh this is good, really good! Prends Garde à Toi is composed by father and son again: Jean Guichard and Aurelien Guichard. It is a very brilliant simple composition of female-skin-mate green watery floral hyacinth that smells like Johnson baby shampoo! But you're gotta like it for sure. A soft sweet green everyday layer with prominent notes of lily of the valley and hyacinth and nettle.

Carpe Odor!

An Italian classic citrus

O/E by Bogue Profumo


I used to be a classic fan. I don't say I'm changed entirely, so still every single classic masterpiece awakens very deep emotions in my heart and makes it bump faster. Antonio Gardoni, as I explained about him in MAAI, is an Italian architect and a kind-hearted guy whose experimental efforts in perfumery blown up many reviewers' blogs but hardly seen a review on fragrance forums and social media and this informal statistics shows that a bunch of professional perfume lovers and critics get involved with his creations. O/E is his latest artwork; not that massive, perplexing and inexplicable as MAAI.
Have you noticed how citric notes are converted in perfumery in two to three decades? Once again smell some of the most iconic citrus aromatics heritages of few decades ago then let's do it with that of contemporary citric perfumes. Seemingly, the citrus definition in the realm of smell is totally altered. Mr. Gardoni deliberately and bravely (an important matter of fact that I adore Antonio's creations is his freehand and open-minded perspective without any possible concern about IFRA or being misjudged, bearing in mind that there are people who know the true value of such great perfumes) revives the splendor of old class citrus heritages of that glamorous era.
Bergamot, lemon, lime, citrus notes, neroli, lemongrass, clove, black pepper, cypress, pine, juniper, Atlas cedaroakmoss, eucalyptus, camphor, geranium, resin notes, Haitian vetiver, tobacco, animalic notes, patchouli, sandalwood.
What I love in Gardioni's compelling perfumes is the paradoxical feature of the scents that emerge both massive brutality and elaborate delicacy of vintage era together. This aspect is much visible in MAAI than O/E, since the actual perfume is citrus based and citruses barely show this feature up.


I searched all my galleries to find the best fit for this scent but it is really hard to pick the right picture, so finally closed my eyes and imagine a dreamy atmosphere for O/E and then I found this picture.

O/E is a sheer austere citrus opener with utmost melancholic use of citruses ever seen. But it's not insensibly just extremist though, literally, Gardoni has kept the balance between the main theme and punchy shocking opening to deliver the message.
O/E opens with vibrant and surprising citrus assault. Deliberately, as a citrus worm, I swear although I'm atheist, I have't seen such beautiful citric composition for years. It's sour green bitter fizzy smell of citrus peels and lime and lemon intensified with lemongrass which brings more contorted facial impression to the party. A bit later the first layer get forms with upcoming sweaty skin smell that thyme and artemisia are pretty notorious for. The comphorated herbs come after the spectacular opening, plus flourishing floral patch enveloped with soft animalic luxury depth of Iso E Super that draws metallic geranium up.
The grown fragrance show begins within an hour representing a sensual geranium and tobacco promising of a dandy super chic masculinity; a real modern/retro heritage of post industrial early 20th century revolutionary botanic cosmetic products is now shaped. O/E has strong south Italian blood, full of passion, charming, intriguing and nostalgic. It's a real intellectual release appeared in the most appropriate era.



Carpe Odor!

Monday, April 13, 2015

Chic and formal as Vanités

Miroir des Vanités by Thierry Mugler


This is the second review I'm writing on this exclusive line of Thierry Mugler. I say exclusive cause to my definition of niche, luxury or whatsoever, it is not so premium in quality but in presentation. As you all know this line has a short tail of distribution with almost higher than moderate price only shown in niche markets. Miroir des Vanités is the only masculine guy in the eightsome of the collection.
This item is a classy and dapper woody aromatic one with delicious zesty spicy main theme. It opens with crispy lemon cooperating with acrid quinine that comes from cinchona bark and mingles with soft dose of anise (not listed, only my assumption). The perfume grows and ages quickly on skin and settles on its heart layer with powdery creamy vibe of savory vetiver; highly attributed with some kind of spicy paste smelling like cinnamon as presented in Chanel Égoïste. It dries out in woodsy vetiver, dry and soft sweet like it has vanilla but since the notes are not listed nowhere, it's just a thought.


Miroir des Vanités, for its effervescent delicious citric air, is a fragrance you want to drink cold. It's dazzling and bright, so active, so vivacious,and full of positive feels. Like his sisters its a modern gourmand fragrance with twisted abstract and faintly mystical manner. Miroir des Vanités is a nice dapper choice for spring.
Longevity and sillage factors both are fairly strong.

Carpe Odor!

Tuesday, April 7, 2015

Perfumery or jewelry?

Gray by Goti


Hailing from Italy, Riccardo Gotti; Italian fashion and accessories designer; with association of Santa Maria Novella had released his first line of three fragrance: Earth, White, and Black in 2008. The new versions are reformulated and two others joined the brand's collection: Smoke and Gray. This is a review on Gray which is created in 2013.
Being available only on few online boutiques like Antonioli, the new series of Goti perfumes has been created under collaboration with Laboratorio Therapeutic MRI (a Dutch epidemiology and skin care laboratory). The new series are represented in a very dandy metallic flasks with very stylish package that made me madly curious about the series even cosnsidering jaw-droppingly high prices! But all I could do is getting a sample of Gray by kindness of a friend from Netherlands.


Eucalyptus, sambuca, blackberry, black currant, and myrtle are the ingredients of Gray. The note listed are so charming but it's not exactly about the overall. Gray starts up with soft booze nuances plus blackberry. Sambuca is so faint so it disappears quickly and what remains is a blurred hint of purely synthetic fruity floral with deep metallic sense of smell. Unfortunately the longevity is as weak as the booze implemented in the perfume; and so as projection. That's all, there's nothing to add more. This scent gonna stay on your skin for about an hour ultimately and not gonna fly more than few inches. The rest is only you and you to hold nose on it and sniff! Ridiculous price offering for such delivery.

Carpe Odor!

Monday, April 6, 2015

Realistic bizarre gourmand

Woodland Strawberries by Neil Morris


The thing that makes Neil Morris' perfumes significant might lay behind the strong personality of scents that present gallantly with no fear of being judged, and this is the fact that makes his creations highly attributable to be perfect signature scents as you might find them bespoke perfumes that his clients have agreed upon public release. Another identity of the perfumes is their fluent story telling and imaginative manner; kind of children book; or profound artistic impressions with deep root in emotions!
All we know about strawberry in perfume and, generally, in the realm of smell, is based on detergent smelling low level inexpensive accords reminiscent of spoiled form highly ripe greenhouse abnormally huge strawberries sold in markets, that indeed, is way different from the reality of the fruit in the matter of smell. But what happens in Woodland Strawberries is not another sweet punk pink colored sense of smell, it is literally a different case.

"A friend and I were hiking through the woods on a gorgeous day and we came across a strawberry bush with still unripened strawberries. It smelled of strawberries with a woody and pungent green scent."       Neil Morris 
I understand why this perfume is biased and unfairly mismarked. People look for strawberry smell in the perfume while Neil Morris has worked out on wild unripe green strawberries in woods to emerge out a wild drama out of cute-named fruit.
Notes: Ambrettolide, geraniol, linalool, black pepper, galbanum, cassis, strawberry, sweet pea, sandalwood, Iso E Super, oak.
Woodland Strawberries initiates vibrant and green dusty with deft cassis and hint of peppery notes amplified by faint smoky presentation of galbanum which shimmers. The first layer runs quickly into the heart with blazing and sharp strawberries; raw, astringent, acidic and deeply metallic; all attributions a peculiar gourmand smell needs. Cassic; leafy and green; beside airy floral vibes envelops strawberry to protect it and keep it alive.
With hints of indolently philosophic oak sprinkled by velvet warmth of sandalwood, the foot layer provides a soft ground. There's a fluffy musky accord presentation all over the performance from alpha to omega which must be ambrettolide (a substance that smells floral with slight sweet red fruity theme).
Personally I have not fallen in love affair with strawberries in perfumes, never ever, and I usually disincline when I see it among notes of a perfume; but Woodland Strawberries is a perfume I strongly recommend to try if you're gonna see to what extent a floral fruity goes with weirdness and it's surprisingly perfect. It is certainly the most true and perfect release upon strawberries, and one of the few whose name perfectly reflects the juice. It exactly is the very moment you find berries in woods and pick them.
Woodland Strawberries is an effervescent metallic woody, floral and fresh fruity leafy fragrance with enormous longevity and high extremist sillage.

Carpe Odor!

Sunday, April 5, 2015

A pinnacle in coffee but...

Intoxicated by Kilian


Now this is what I mean when I say "niche" is a luxurious monkey business expanded toward new-brand rootless markets, and Kilian is one of those fraudulent who considerably grew up in just few years with a line of creations exposing nothing special but fancy packages and names!
I, with a friend, in a high-end market have been suggested for this last series of Kilian named "Perfume as an Art". God, I don't know shall I laugh or cry! Poor art!
As always I asked for samples and they know I don't buy anything without several testings. So I tried my sample here and there and this is the third day and I seriously don't know what to say! Should one pay $320 (the price they charge in Turkey!) for a 50ml dandy spicy warm coffee smell that Thierry Mugler had created many years ago? Or Remy Latour had done before that with Cigar series? Isn't funny that a "niche" brand copies a mass-pleaser and top seller (and certainly masterpiece) designer? Furthermore; they've done it with only few basic elements and it makes me more laugh and believe that Mugler has nailed it all the way through!
I don't say Intoxicated is not great or perfect; it indeed is; but a matter of fact is the price! "Why they create a product which is highly reminiscent of much cheaper one" is the question.


Intoxicated opens with pure blast of gourmand coffee just as represented in most of A*Men series; specially the original version. The only bold difference with A*Men is dark refined espresso smell of overly burnt coffee that is not used in A*Men (there are varieties of coffee products and Turkish coffee; that Kilian has referred this fragrance to; is the least burnt and most ground coffee just unlike espresso that is the most burnt and least ground one).
"Kilian Hennessy and Calice Becker conjure up the steam from an eggshell cup of rich viscous Turkish coffee laced with green cardamom in double strength - in oil and absolute - to glow as the opulent heart of the scent. Around this swells the warm spicy fragrance of hallucinogenic nutmeg & powdered cinnamon. At the base is the crystal sweetness of burned caramelized sugar."
The fragrance has linear performance towards integrated spicy sense that as it goes it gets closer to A*Men's damp main theme (however A*Men is sweeter and punchy in general). You know what? Who makes this concept has never drunk Turkish coffee! And who purchases this perfume is not a perfume lover or perfumista, is a luxury addict only!