Wednesday, May 31, 2017

I hate roses and I'm not afraid to confess

© pierre de nishapurIt's time to confess, or whatever we call it. I need to declare - as I frequently mentioned here and there - I can't bear roses on me. I even hardly tolerate many roses on others, nevertheless, a fine rose, no matter disliked, is what deserves a decent olfactory discovery. As a fragrance reviewer I am stubborn enough to analyze many roses even if they give me fatal headache and in this post I briefly show how capable I am! I introduce the most brilliant rose fragrances dropped on my way by chance this last months. Anyhow, you bear in mind that my main motto is the more real rose is, the more I avoid!

Roses are one of the most influential materials of perfumery, one of the most ancient ones with centuries of background. They are also symbol of love, lust, romance, and in field of perfumery they are the first thing coming to mind after the term: floral. All these attributions make roses deserving coats of arms!

One of the most impressive roses I encountered is from the infamous yet colossal French maestro perfumer Henry Jacques. A frequent - now sort of outdated - trend of oriental perfumery is rose/oud/patchouli/saffron compositions that we all know how many releases hit markets these years, spinning around these elements from deepest mainstreams to infinity niches. Jacques' Rose Oudh is probably the very one which gives fans of such compositions a screaming olfactory orgasm. I re-underline that roses agitate me, but this glorious rose is what surfaces in my mind. It begins with an instant sharp metallic juicy pinky rose that immediately reminds me rosewater and rose syrup. At the same time, it exhibits in a transparent dark crimson render. The balance of rose to oud seems to be measured by goldsmith scale. Rose overwhelms and oud does not punch out. Just in the middle of game a freshly cracked geranium stem and violet join in and elevate quickly. Rose/geranium is my phobia but damn this concoction is beyond imagination. I bet it could sell like no other perfume in 19th century Paris. The base of this fragrance which appears at least a day later is strengthen by honey and warm balsamic surfaces. With fresh juicy geranium it becomes like a sweet candy rose. I can't fully classify Rose Oudh for women or for girls. It's both cute and mature, and kind of sinful lust appears in every whiff of it.

Kâshân Rose or simply known Kâshân, is a premium rose work by The Different Company. I admire many works of this house for they have fluent performance on skin. Main criteria of design in TDC is ultimately transparent and natural scents which itself is a triumph. Now if the title seems odd, Kashan is a region in heart of Iran where harsh desert and salt lake threatens every flora and fauna, yet you wonder how nature overcomes with superior fig, pomegranate, and fleshy juicy roses names after the region: Kashan. This is the very tiny pink roses by which famous Iranian rosewater is extracted.
Kâshân Rose is literally the most faithful tribute to Kashan roses. A fresh, airy, innocent, and softly dusty rose that smells simple and at the same time luxurious, just the way Iranian roses are. It's slightly spicy peppery and musky in the base, for that, in a way it's reminiscent of Serge Lutens La Fille de Berlin, but it stays more specific to one type of rose while Lutens preferred a rose accord to give a general spectra. In contrary to some of this house, this fragrance has quite a enormous sillage performance on skin.

La Fille de Berlin I said. This is an exceptional delivery. A bold peppery top draws in a heady rose that I guess to be an accord made by several roses and violet. Whatever it is, it's so premium like newly bloomed rose buds in a shimmering sun after heavy spring rain. Fresh, metallic, juicy, and sort of darksome and gloomy. It is the very rose to fit Lutens, and Christopher Sheldrake knows perfectly how to mirror the godfather's spirit in his fragrances. The rose apparently plays innocent and sinful, both, and feminine with masculinity hidden in spirit. It's a very special Gothic rose with sinister edges, and olfactory equivalence of morbid love between Tim Burton's characters! La Fille de Berlin is a very smooth and wearable rose, functional and easy to go, and also archetypal rose but in the same way it's has a unique dramatic and tragic face like German expressionism cinema. The base of this rose throne reaches a very interesting animalic structure. Untold, that increases its intriguing features but a sheer musky tone is clearly detectable.

Frédéric Malle Une Rose is another gem I like to add to my list. This simple rose - thought giant in impact and emotions - is delivered by master perfumer Edouard Fléchier; the architect behind Montana Parfum d'Homme and Christian Dior Poison.
Une Rose opens with a soprano-voiced rose washed by poisonous winy notes and fruity top. Fresh, light, juicy and jovial fruits reminiscent of a mouthwatering melon and tropical fruit dish! Then gradually core elements begin to show off. First rose's old friend - geranium - that accentuates it with green zest. Rose's tea-like and smooth smoky feature is amplified by a touch of earthy materials (tuber noted in the pyramid). Some rose perfumes are Full HD quality, this one is rose itself in extraction pot with dew drops on velvety petals, stems, leaves, thorns, root and even a bit of wet garden soil. This is by far like no other rose. Subsequently, honey, amber accord and woody nuances give the final touch and uplift it to a very romantic and carnal scale.

I would like to add some other rose I admire the most but the post is getting too long. Frederic Malle has two other roses, so as Parfums MDCI's jaw-dropping Rose de Siwa and many which I should add in a separated review. But what I learned is the purer rose is, the more I admire.

Carpe Odor!

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