Wednesday, June 7, 2017

An overview on feminine fragrances by Rancé 1795

© pierre de nishapurHistorically based in Grasse and today based in Milan, the French perfumery house of Rancé 1795 takes its roots back in early 17th century when the family was in scented gloves production and trade for aristocratic society of old France.
In 1795 François Rancé fully turned brand's activity in perfumery and created impressive concoctions that captured attention of elite portraits of the era like the royal family. From then on, the brand follow their tradition in perfumery with renewals upon classic compositions made in their past. Works that you hardly believe to be made over a century ago. They are undiscovered timeless beauties.

By kindness of a dear friend I found chance to try some of top sellers feminines of Rancé and here's my impressions about six of them which I love the most. To avoid lengthening the post I skipped over story behind each creation. I'm sure the website clearly described them.

Élise is 360° of orange blossom with extraordinary longevity and sillage like there's no tomorrow; unexpected from ordinary neroli fragrances. Élise unfolds with zesty orange and soft marine touch then transfers into sparkling and gauzy texture of neroli allied with spiky eucalyptus and rose which delivers a strong twist of power to it. In a general spectra it is a solid simple fragrance that exhibits springy, fresh blossomy vibe like a garden of full-bloomed trees of every specie scattering blossom scents in air, and at the same time is stays quite masculine because of its pungent eucalyptus that gives neroli a domineering portrait that resembles Francis Kurkdjian's accomplishment in Fleur du Mâle for Jean Paul Gaultier. Strong in personality, adventurous, a bit bulky for carrying such delicate name, and steady in quality on skin easily for over half a day. And to be precise, the quality of scents is exquisite.

My first impression on Eugénie was "how could one come up with a perfume back in days of Empress Eugénie (1826-1920) including totally modern notes like melon, passion fruit, black currant, etc." I guess the formula must have been updated for adaptability with contemporary tastes. The fragrance opens with a truly beautiful fruity side, exhibiting a fat compilation of fruits, ylang-ylang, rose and jasmine. This is a typical fruity floral list of notes but directed in an astonishing quality to conjure up a comfort mood. The heart of the perfume is match of sympathetic white floral notes, chypre-inclining rose/oak moss, and spiky fruity top. Beyond everything I fell in love with play of melon in this fragrance, as this note is scarce and once found not usually in a premium render. What a strange note! In Carnal Flower it fits tuberose, in Breath of God it fits ashtray smell of incense, and here it camouflages in divinity of jasmine, magnolia, neroli and iris.

Laetitia is a strong play of gourmand incense and patchouli. A professional composition that grabs every serious perfumista's attention, though patchouli haters gonna hate cause it's a premium play of the mint. Laetitia opens with a familiar touch of nutmeg and resinous play that acts like incense in Bentley fragrances. Nevertheless, it still leans to feminine side to display powerful side of a woman. "There is a woman behind every successful man" we say as an idiom. It's soft smoky, earthy warm patchouli, less curvy and lavish than Chanel Coromandel, more delicate and delicious than Nicolaï Patchouli Intense. Tolu and Labdanum deliver a resinous incense-like warm soothing play in dry down. Laetitia has potent play on my skin. Surprisingly it plays stronger on my wife's with more projection and with more luxurious and gilded facets. I imagine how opulently it plays in her new new year night! Should purchase one to gift her.

Hélène is a soft exotic and sincere luxurious fragrance. It's a combination of woodsy tone, light blossomy and mature powdery floral notes in a classy, wearable and captivating style. New edition of this perfume is told to be made in 2015. I didn't tried it before but the current formula is way so pleasing. In a way Hélène is alike many top seller fragrances of mainstream perfumery (Yves Saint Laurent Elle EdP, for instance) yet, you can't easily compare the quality of notes, transparency, fluency of aroma and its integrity. Opens with a woody aroma of newly sharpened pencil, spiced and warm ylang-ylang. Invites earthy powdery iris and heliotrope that itself calls for a flat musky woody dry down. Hélène is a good juxtaposition of pure class and functionality without spoiling each other. 

Jasmin du Malabar is a smoky jasmine, appreciating mimosa in its composition that keeps fleshy jasmines away from indolic and sweet nuances. Mimosa simply delivers a cigarette smelling soft bitter smoke with neutral identity. A poker face charming plant that greatly acts a timeless luxury in any composition in takes sit. In Jasmine du Malabur jasmine is keystone but mimosa is voussoir that shapes the arc. Wrapping it briefly, Jasmin du Malabur is a wearable, versatile, androgynous, bitter/sweet citrus jasmine, quite fit for casual gorgeousness. Modern and young and full of life. An outdoor fragrance to celebrate every sunny day.

I'm infatuated with zest and juiciness of Tubéreuse Amour. This perfume from beginning to die has a flattering way of joy and happiness encapsulated in a handful of random flowers arranged in messy way looking so fancy. Tuberose's wild creaminess solved in sweet old-smelling osmanthus and powdery iris and rose. This compilation is a juxtaposition of youth and grown class. Deep oriental, poetic and divine osmanthus, light powdery iris and milky sandalwood here truly give an identity to tuberose to the point one cannot pass by without rolled eyes and sharpened nostrils to track such carnal and playful smell. If we had tuberose-flavored candy it would definitely smell like Tubéreuse Amour.

Carpe Odor!
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