Monday, June 5, 2017

Portrait of a gentleman: Brioni Eau de Toilette


© pierre de nishapurDue to a notable growth in the last decades - regardless to cons and pros - the perfume industry is swelled in a colossal scale and categorized in tens of branches. Some simply called mainstreams or designers, aiming to produce ordinary stuff from inferior to middle quality to catch fish from mass marketing and department stores. Finding good quality from this class if finding gold in river; hard labor but possible and once found it's Kuh-i-Noor! Once a while happens to see legendary fragrances like Dior Fahrenheit, Chloé Love, or Chanel Coco Mademoiselle.
Niches, indies, naturals, mainstreams, on and on... the categories are endless and each targets its customers from distinct angle. In this crowded bazaar there's a minority - yet large enough to gather in a group - of couture or tailor houses - mostly Italians - who run a small business of perfume in limited amount and superior quality. Brioni is one of them.
I encountered Brioni Eau de Toilette all by chance when a friend of mine sent me a sample of this fragrance. The craft pack of sample with its irregular design (showed below in picture) introduces more comprehensive and more irregular design of heavy glass bottle of perfume which drives me crazy (what I illustrated here). The first time I saw it I totally forgot to test the juice as I was totally drawn into the design.
Brioni Ead de Toilette is an aromatic spicy masculine fragrance released in 2014 in collaboration with perfumer Raymond Matts. It is launched in limited quantity in 75ml and sells in limited points like Neiman Marcus and Mr Porter for approximately $275 (unavailable in Brioni webpage). 

The scent opens with a transparent fine lemon odor paired with a translucent peppery earthy thing that immediately gives me the same vibe of Terre d'Hermès but soft play of iris, magnolia and violet changes the path. Generous opening, near to mainstream fragrances, but the quality of juice is remarkable. The following is lyric of earthy floral accord and light lemon, that introduce a gentle warmth in the core with more spicy licorice, pale saffron/leather, lot of cedar and probably fresh lavender.

Functionally, it's a wearable fragrance from tuxedo to swimsuit, four season, gentle, light, dapper and neat which brings you illogically lots of compliments from everyone around. I even got complement from a colleague who doesn't like me!

The sample I talk about

Conceptually, the entire performance smells simply nice, immaculate, masculine and refined with no extra edge to capture a general picturesque of a manly mood and nothing more.
About performance, this is of those fragrances you lose its tracks but other apparently get it on you. Medium projection, fair enough trail of scent and medium tenacity. A good one, but obviously with this price not for perfume-maniacs like me.

Carpe Odor!
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